Sunday, June 23, 2024 Some people want a big house and fancy cars Are you tired of paying utility bills, such as water, trash, electricity, and sewer? Tired of being constantly taxed to death by the city, county and state? Are you tired of living by the rules and regulations of society? Have you had enough of that daily grind, traffic, congestion, air pollution, fighting over parking spaces? Then living off grid is the lifestyle for you! Today, we would get a good taste of that lifestyle, but oh excuse me, I am getting ahead of myself. Almost symbolic of what was to come, we got to sleep in a bit today. I didn't crawl out of bed until 8 a.m. We showered, dressed, packed and were on the road to excitement by 9:30 AM. The two hour drive to Talkeetna was a joy in and of itself. There were a few roadside businesses along the way, but mostly we were calmed by the presence of millions of millions of trees.
The weathered wooden sign said, "Welcome to beautiful downtown Talkeetna" stood as more than just a greeting. For us, it was a portal, a promise of adventure, and the starting point of a journey into the heart of Alaskan wilderness. Talkeetna, a charming town steeped in history and brimming with character, was the stepping stone to our Eden, and the legendary Hurricane Turn train would be our magic carpet ride there. The Hurricane Turn, a truly unique Alaska Railroad experience, is a lifeline for those who live off the grid and a thrilling ride for those seeking a glimpse into a bygone era. Unlike its express counterparts, this train is a local, a chugging, whistling friend that pauses on demand, dropping off supplies and passengers along its remote route. We notified the conductor, a friendly, seasoned railroader with eyes that held stories of countless journeys, that we needed to be let off at milepost 239.5. The beauty of the Hurricane Turn lies in its accommodation of flag stops, a testament to the enduring spirit of Alaskan self-reliance and community. The conductor, unfazed by our request, simply nodded and made a note. Our crew was Mary Sprague, onboard supervisor, conductor Charley Baldwin and engineers Bill Bivins and Ben E. King.
The jolt of the train coming to a halt was a welcome, yet bittersweet signal. Just 20 minutes after boarding, our brief rail journey had ended. While the short ride was pleasant, the real adventure was about to begin: a plunge into the heart of the Alaskan wilderness at Rob and Sarah's off-grid cabin. Connecting with people online often leads to serendipitous encounters, and my relationship with Rob was a perfect example. It all started with a simple request for a photo back in June 2022. Since then, online conversations blossomed, and I even had the pleasure of meeting him in person during a 557 tour in Wasilla. Now, here we were, ready to experience their off-grid lifestyle firsthand. Rob and Sarah greeted us with warm smiles and, more importantly, two awaiting four-wheelers. These weren't just recreational vehicles; they were our chariots to navigate the challenging two-mile trail separating the train tracks from their secluded cabin. I immediately nominated Terry as our driver, a decision that would prove to be both hilarious and slightly terrifying. Rob's initial instructions were deceptively simple: "Follow me. It drives just like you drive a car." Little did we know, those words would become a running joke throughout our stay. As Terry later exclaimed, in a tone laced with both amusement and exasperation, "NOT!" The trail was an untamed beast. A gauntlet of gnarled roots, murky water crossings, deep ruts carved by countless tires, fallen logs demanding skillful maneuvering, precariously built bridges swaying with each passing vehicle, and tall, concealing grass obscuring the path ahead. It was a far cry from a smooth asphalt road. Terry, with a grip tighter than a bear hug, expertly navigated the terrain. Her knuckles turned a shade whiter with each obstacle, a testament to the demanding nature of the journey. Despite the palpable tension, a smile playe treacherous terrd on her lips as we finally pulled up to the cabin. "It was fun, but a bit nerve-racking!" she confessed, the adrenaline still coursing through her veins.
Our tour began with a step back in time, into the original 450-square-foot cabin on their 5-acre property. This humble dwelling holds a special significance. It was once home to Jim and Nancy James, familiar faces to viewers of the TV show "Railroad Alaska." Walking inside felt like entering the backdrop of the show, a quaint and cozy space soon to be available for overnight guests. And the view? Simply stunning. The front window framed a postcard-perfect vista of Denali. Beyond the cabin, the property unfolds, revealing a barn, a chicken coop, smoker, and other intriguing features. There's "Nancy’s Studio," a space currently serving as Rob and Sarah's home, destined to become their permanent residence. Then there's the "moose coffin," a rather humorously named structure that houses their freezers – a testament to the resourcefulness required for Alaskan living. Adding to the charm is a trapper cabin, hinting at the property's rich history. Meeting their super-friendly dog, Zeus, was a highlight, prompting a pang of longing for our own recently acquired puppy Tazzy back home. He perfectly embodied the welcoming spirit of the homestead. From the original cabin, we moved to the couple's main dwelling, a spacious 1800 square foot haven. Rob, a true embodiment of the "Roughing it Easy" philosophy, has poured his heart and soul into finishing the interior. His dedication is evident in every detail, promising a future of comfortable living for him and Sarah, a well-earned reward for their tireless efforts. Rob had a little surprise to share with us. During his restoration work, he found one of Jim James' homemade prosthetics. Of course, this prompted story telling about the unique character that was Jim James. We shared a delightful snack on their front porch – crackers, salmon, peppers, and fiddleheads, a true taste of Alaska. As we savored the food and the scenery, the peacefulness of the place enveloped us. Sharing conversation with Rob and Sarah, we learned about their unwavering love for the property and their dedication to the demanding, yet fulfilling, lifestyle they've chosen. Rob and Sarah purchased the land and buildings three years ago for $175,000 to create the Curmudge Inn. This investment will soon pay dividends as their plan is to open up two of the cabins for overnight rentals, offering others a chance to experience a slice of Alaskan life. Make sure to visit their YouTube channel here.
Around 5:30, we hopped back onto the ATVs, ready for the return journey over the rugged terrain. Terry took the wheel again, navigating the bumpy path with a mix of excitement and careful concentration. The landscape was breathtaking, the kind of untamed beauty that makes you feel truly connected to nature. We arrived at the train tracks with plenty of time to spare. Forty-five minutes felt like no time at all, spent chatting and enjoying the quiet peace of the wilderness. Then, as if on cue, a magnificent black bear emerged from the trees. It sauntered across the tracks about 100 yards from where we stood, a powerful and graceful creature in its natural habitat. We watched in awe, a silent testament to the raw beauty surrounding us. It was a moment that solidified the day's adventure in our minds, a perfect blend of orchestrated fun and unexpected wildlife encounters. Finally, the rumble of the southbound train broke the silence. Terry eagerly flagged it down, ready to trade the ATVs for the rhythmic sway of the train. The ride back to town was a chance to reflect on the day. From the exhilarating ATV ride across the challenging terrain to the awe-inspiring glimpse of the black bear, the entire experience was truly special. But what made it even more memorable was the warmth and generosity of Rob and Sarah. Their kindness and hospitality transformed a good day into an unforgettable one. Their attention to detail and genuine desire to share their love of the outdoors made us feel welcome and comfortable every step of the way. It was a day of unusual fun, a perfect blend of adventure and relaxation. And thanks to Rob and Sarah, it's a memory we'll cherish for years to come. We can't wait to see what adventures await us on our next visit!
After arriving in Talkeetna, Terry walked to the parking lot to retrieve our truck, while I, ever the foamer, videotaped a passenger train. Before leaving Talkeetna, we decided to look for a few geocaches. We headed to a nearby playground, where we successfully located our first geocache. The thrill of the hunt and the satisfaction of finding the hidden container were enough to fuel our enthusiasm for a second attempt. We ventured to another location nearby, hoping to continue our winning streak. However, despite our best efforts and meticulous searching, the elusive geocache remained unfound. Disappointment lingered, but it didn't dampen our spirits. After all, the beauty of geocaching lies in the journey, not just the destination. We turned our sights south, towards our Anchorage home. As hunger pangs started to set in, we made a crucial pit stop in Wasilla at the familiar red-roofed haven of Wendy's. The allure of the value meal was too strong to resist. At $7.99, the combination of a small burger, nuggets, fries, and a Frosty seemed like a steal, although we would have paid $3.00 less back home in Clayton, Ohio. We devoured our meals with the gusto of seasoned adventurers, fueled by a day of outdoor exploration. It's amazing how much better fast food tastes when earned! Refueled and refreshed, we continued our journey, finally reaching our Anchorage home at a late 11:00 p.m. Being the ever the diligent documenter, I took a few moments to jot down some notes about our day's escapades. With the day's memories fresh in our minds, we finally succumbed to the call of sleep, ready to recharge for whatever adventures tomorrow might bring. |