Friday, June 21, 2024

Aurora CarThe alarm clock is rarely a welcome sound, but at 4:30 a.m., it felt like my skull was being split in half. Limited mobility adds a layer of complexity to any journey, and this one was no exception. An hour ticked by as I navigated the shower, brushed my teeth, dried my hair, and finally, got dressed. Every movement was deliberate, a small price to pay for what awaited.

By 6:00 a.m., we arrived at the Anchorage depot, the air buzzing with anticipation. We joined our fellow "Aurora folks" curbside, a collection of 25 excited travelers, all united by a single purpose: to experience the magic of Alaska aboard a truly special train. This wasn’t just any train ride; it was the Summer Solstice train journey from Anchorage to Seward aboard the Aurora. The Aurora wasn’t just a train car; it was a business/party car, promising a day of unparalleled views, convivial company and delicious food. But the journey had a deeper significance.

This event was a fundraising venture, dedicated to the ambitious project of refurbishing steam locomotive #557. The rumble of a vintage engine, the hiss of steam – these were sounds and experiences worth preserving, and we were proud to be contributing to the resurrection of this historical treasure.

As we waited, swapping stories and sharing nervous excitement, the air crackled with a collective anticipation. This was the day! The day we chased the midnight sun through the heart of Alaska, a journey filled with breathtaking landscapes and the promise of an unforgettable experience. The Aurora awaited, and with her, the chance to witness the beauty of the Last Frontier and play a small part in preserving its rich history.

Before boarding, we got our photo taken with Alaska Railroad conductor and world traveler Brice Douglas as well as Chief Executive Officer of the 557 Restoration Company, Patrick Durand. These gentlemen were the key planners behind today's trip. Terry was kind enough to take photos of the entire roster for me: SD70MAC #4328, GP40 #3013, baggage car 103, GoldStar Ultradomes 655 and 656, diner 401, cafe diner 352, coach 208, dome 501, coaches 200, 210, 202 and 203, and #2000 Aurora.

We all know that feeling – the slight panic as you’re almost the last to board a train, the hurried scan for available seats, hoping to snag a good spot before the journey begins. As Terry and I boarded the train, a wave of disappointment washed over us. Every pair of seats was taken. I sat down in a nearby empty high top seat and Terry decided to stand beside me.

But then, something remarkable happened.

A gentleman, noticing our predicament, got out of his seat next to mine and approached us with a kind smile. "I see you'd like to sit together," he said, his voice gentle and polite. “I’ll find myself another seat.”

His name, as we soon learned, was Paul Duncan. Chivalry, it seemed, wasn’t dead after all. In a world that often felt rushed and self-absorbed, Paul Duncan's simple gesture was a beacon of kindness. He sacrificed his own comfort and convenience, without hesitation, purely to bring a little happiness to two strangers.

I will not forget this act of kindness as long as I live. It served as a powerful reminder that often, the simplest gestures can have the most profound impact, and that even on a crowded train, there's always room for a little bit of human connection and a lot of generosity.

ARRC President and Chief Executive Officer Bill O'Leary (also the ruler of all time, space and dimension) gave a welcome speech followed by trip information by Patrick Durand. With a sharp blast from the locomotive's horn, we departed the depot at 6:45 a.m. sharp. Somehow we had lucked into a beautiful day with blue bird skies, warm temperatures and no wind. Yes indeed it was a perfect weather day: 60’s, sunny, and clear!

About an hour down the track we were served breakfast burritos with egg and reindeer sausage, fruit, coffee, and juice. Following breakfast we all were treated to mimosas. Patrick Durand narrated much of the trip telling us about sights we were passing and special tidbits about the railroad.

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Moderne-style Anchorage Depot was the starting point of our journey. John and CEO Bill O'Leary discussing extending the Alaska Railroad to John's home town of Clayton, Ohio. There's lots of exciting chatter as the train pulls out of the depot.
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Breakfast burritos with egg, reindeer sausage and salsa, as well as fresh fruit. Soon the city of Anchorage melted away into beautiful mountainous Alaskan scenery. FRA rules state vestibule doors remain closed so platforms are the only way to experience the open air.
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Scenic Turnagain Arm is wedged between stunning snow capped mountains and crisp tidal waters. Video Dall sheep were out in full force today. Click here to view the video. Selfie time: Terry and John enjoy mimosas as the train traverses scenic Turnagain Arm.
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TwentyMile Bridge Portage Alder, pine and mountains
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Entering the first of five tunnels Entering the second of five tunnels  These tunnels were dug in 1906 as part of the ACRR.
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Emerging from the final of five tunnels The train passes Bartlett Glacier. Here is the video. This area was part of the old Loop District
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Running a 14 degree curve while battling a 3% grade Lucky to have a wife who loves this as much as I do! Triple Lakes
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Jaw dropping Alaskan Scenery! Having a sunny day with bright blue skies made the landscape come alive! I thought Brice was taking a photo of us! Instead, he had the camera focused on himself. What a joker! And then Brice took the photo of us for real. It was not until later we discovered his little trick.
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Andrew Cox, fellow Railfan and our volunteer bartender for the 557 Solstice Charter, takes a few moments away from serving drinks to enjoy the scenery. Casey Durand took photos of our train. He also came to Seward to provide transportation for those needing to get to restaurants and tours. Once we stopped in Seward several people got on the Aurora railcar with us to get rare mileage. Here 557 mechanical wizard Paul Dalleska with John.
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Conductor Vern Gillis provided expertise in turning the train around in Seward. Click here for the switching video or here for the Seward Depot arrival video. Check out the entire switching movement by Geoff Brown. SD70MAC #4328 with its 100th anniversary wrap stood sentry just outside the Seward Depot. Aurora car at the Seward train depot. Dig that bright blue sky!


Seward, Alaska, is a quintessential Alaskan town, nestled between mountains and the sea. For those seeking a true Alaskan experience, it's a must-visit. Our recent trip was made especially memorable thanks to a drop dead awesome whale-watching tour.

Upon arriving in Seward, our first order of business was getting settled. Casey was a lifesaver, delivering my electric wheelchair that allowed me to explore the town with ease. We rolled towards the boat dock, eager to embark on our whale-watching adventure.

With a bit of time to spare before boarding, we decided to explore Seward. We even managed to squeeze in some geocaching as well as claiming a couple of stages of an adventure lab. It was a fun way to soak in the atmosphere and discover hidden gems in this charming seaside town.

Returning to the dock, I was able to ride the electric wheelchair right up to the boat. We opted for a smaller vessel, a decision that proved to be incredibly worthwhile. With Captain Emily and just two other passengers, the intimate setting allowed for a more personalized and immersive experience. Having been on several whale-watching tours before, I wasn't expecting anything drastically different. But what unfolded next was truly extraordinary. Almost immediately, we were surrounded by whales. And then, it happened. A humpback whale totally breached out of the water a mere 300 yards from our boat! I was so captivated that I barely managed to capture any of it on film. Witnessing a full whale breach in person is an experience that photos simply can't do justice. The sound of the whale hitting the water was met with cheers from every other tourist boat in the vicinity. It was a moment of pure, unadulterated awe.

Throughout our tour, we encountered playful otters, adorable puffins, majestic eagles soaring overhead, sleek harbor seals lounging on rocks, and boisterous sea lions vying for space. It was a veritable wildlife extravaganza! After four hours of breathtaking encounters, we returned to the dock at 5:00 p.m. Casey was waiting to transport us to the depot for our northbound departure at 6:00 p.m.

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Seward, located on Resurrection Bay, has a plethora boats, including commercial fishing boats, charter boats, tour boats, and cruise ships.  Posing with Captain Emily with Northern Latitude Adventures. She used a microphone in the water to listen to the whale's vocalizations and track them down. With only four people on board, it was easy to find great seating and position ourselves for great photos and video. Captain Emily earned our unqualified recommendation.
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Several tourist boats, including ours, surrounded a pod of whales. The whales seemed unconcerned with our presence and surfaced quite a few times. Perfect weather and constant whale activity made for an unforgettable day!
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One of the many bald eagles we spotted along the coast line. Sea lions sunbathing, relaxing and contemplating the origin of the universe Video: We spotted lots of whale tails and spouts, but did not capture the full breach of one mighty whale.
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Crappy Video: Harbor seals Crappy Video: Harbor seals with pups Crappy Video: Puffins
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Alaska is a land of breathtaking beauty, and the return trip to Anchorage was no exception. From stunning vistas glimpsed through train windows to incredible wildlife sightings, it was a day packed with memorable moments.

Heading back towards Anchorage, the landscape unfolded in a panorama of majestic mountains and shimmering waters. We couldn't help but reach for our cameras, snapping away to capture the grandeur that surrounded us. And then came the wildlife. First, a magnificent moose, grazing peacefully near the tracks. Shortly after, an even more thrilling sight – a bear, lumbering through the undergrowth. It was a truly unforgettable experience, a reminder of the raw, untamed spirit of Alaska.

The day took an unexpected turn for the historically inclined. Onboard the train, we were joined by Mike Gerenday, who carried with him a treasure trove of historical photographs. These weren't just any pictures; they were part of a collection painstakingly assembled by Mary Bryan over many years. Recognizing the importance of preserving these slices of Alaska's past, Mary entrusted them to Mike, and Mike, in turn, passed them on to me with the hope that I could scan them for my website, sharing them with a wider audience. It was a privilege to be a link in the chain of preservation, ensuring that Mary's dedication and these fascinating glimpses into the past wouldn't be lost.

Of course, no memorable journey is complete without a satisfying meal. Dinner consisted of a delicious spread: a refreshing Caesar Salad, followed by a flavorful Chicken Pesto Balsamic, and creamy mashed potatoes that were the perfect comfort food.

The beautiful weather held throughout the day, enhancing the already stunning scenery. As the train wound its way back, we were treated to a constantly changing tapestry of landscapes, each more captivating than the last.

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Mike Gerenday hopped onboard and shared the photos he received from Mary Bryan. Patrick Durand is the wind beneath the wings of the restoration of steam locomotive #557. Self-centered railfans blocked the platform so I was forced to get my photos from inside the Aurora.
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Quoting former ARR Superintendent of Transportation, Our locomotives "are passing in front of the face of Bartlett Glacier, one of three massive rivers of ice that are signatures of the trip south to Seward. [Our] train is seen winding around a 14 degree curve while battling a 3% grade on the single most spectacular section of line on the Alaska Railroad (which is saying a lot for a road consisting of innumerable superlatives). At their closest point the track centers are only about 230 ft apart, though about 0.7 miles away by rail and more than 110 feet difference in elevation! This is just about MP 48 on the ARR mainline, and we were at an elevation of about 750 feet. having climbed from sea level in only 15 miles. "

Bartlett Glacier was named in 1907 for Frank Bartlett, Alaska Central Railroad civil engineer.

This section of the railroad initially had a pig tail or loop to cut the elevation gain of the surrounding area. Over the next three decades after The Loop's construction, Bartlett Glacier receded significantly, thus making it possible to eliminate it The railroad could now develop grade line on fill rather than depend on wooden structures. Although the Loop had served its purpose well, there were many advantages to removing it. As resident engineer Cliff Fugelstaad remembers it, "The trestles were getting pretty shaky. We breathed a sigh of relief when we got off of them."

In 2002 I made a trip to this area looking for Loop and snow shed remnants. Later, I would fly over the area with pilot Jim Somerville. I spotted many instances of ridge lines of stubby vegetation which represented the old rail grade. As an added bonus, we found timbers from the old trestle and concrete abutments from the pilings.

On November 6, 1951 the line change was opened and the famous Loop District between miles 47.5 and 50.8 was eliminated. A total of 1.1 miles was cut off the Seward to Anchorage run, costing the railroad $1,000.000. General Manager J.P. Johnson dove a golden spike marking the completion of the line.

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Beautiful mountains reflect in crystal clear waters Video: Turquoise waters framed by majestic mountains Video: Scenic mountains are everywhere you go in AK.
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Video: Roaring waterfall Rail travel provides a continuously changing vistas from the comfort of your seat. Terry enjoying an Alaskan beverage
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Vast forested regions and incredible mountain ranges Swamps, lagoons, forests and mountains, all in a singular view The wye at Portage
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Coastal Classic at Gorilla Rock Aurora ridership Terry & Karen were extremely helpful during the planning phases for the trip. They even had custom 557 napkins made for the event!
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SD70MAC #4328 riding off into the sunset.    

Finally, a little after 10:00pm, we pulled back into Anchorage and took a moment for a grand group photo. We quickly gathered our gear, loaded up our trusty Toyota Tacoma, and began the drive back to Curt and Renee’s home. We arrived just before midnight, tired but exhilarated, ready to drift off to sleep with dreams of moose, bears, and the rich history of Alaska dancing in our heads. It was a day that perfectly encapsulated the magic of the Last Frontier.

Here are some bonus videos:

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